Embarking on the journey of how to build a gas powered RC car from scratch is a deeply rewarding project that combines mechanical skill, electronic precision, and a passion for engineering. This guide will walk you through every critical step, from understanding the fundamental components to the exhilarating first start-up, ensuring you gain not only a functional remote control vehicle but also invaluable knowledge about its inner workings. Building your own RC car from the ground up offers unparalleled customization opportunities, a deeper understanding of automotive mechanics, and the sheer satisfaction of creating something powerful with your own hands.
Understanding the Basics of Gas Powered RC Cars

Before diving into the build process, it’s crucial to grasp what makes these miniature beasts tick. Gas powered RC cars, often referred to as nitro or petrol RC cars, are sophisticated machines that mimic the operation of full-sized automobiles. They use internal combustion engines, typically running on a special blend of fuel (nitromethane for nitro engines, or gasoline for larger petrol engines), to generate power, which is then transmitted to the wheels through a complex drivetrain. This understanding forms the bedrock for anyone looking into how to build a gas powered RC car from scratch.
What Makes Them Tick?
At their core, gas powered RC cars comprise several interdependent systems:
- The Engine and Fuel System: This is the heart of your RC car. Nitro engines are smaller, high-revving powerhouses, while petrol engines are larger, offer more torque, and run on standard gasoline mixed with oil. The fuel system includes the fuel tank, fuel lines, and carburetor.
- The Chassis: This is the structural backbone, often made from aluminum or composite materials, to which all other components are mounted. Its design dictates the car’s handling characteristics.
- The Drivetrain: This system transfers power from the engine to the wheels. It typically includes a clutch, gearbox, differentials, and driveshafts.
- Suspension System: Comprising shock absorbers and wishbones, the suspension allows the wheels to move independently, absorbing bumps and maintaining tire contact with the ground for optimal handling.
- Steering System: Controlled by a servo, the steering system uses linkages to turn the front wheels.
- Braking System: Gas RC cars use disc brakes, much like full-sized cars, activated by a separate servo.
- Radio System: This includes the transmitter (controller) and the receiver inside the car, which translates your commands into actions. Servos are the electromechanical devices that execute these commands for steering, throttle, and braking.
Each component plays a vital role, and selecting the right parts is paramount to a successful build.
Why Build From Scratch?
The decision of how to build a gas powered RC car from scratch versus buying a ready-to-run (RTR) model offers distinct advantages. Firstly, it provides an unmatched level of customization. You can choose every component, optimizing for speed, durability, or a specific type of terrain. Secondly, it’s an incredible learning experience. You gain an intimate understanding of each part’s function and how they interact, which proves invaluable for troubleshooting and maintenance later on. Lastly, for many enthusiasts, the satisfaction derived from crafting a high-performance machine with their own hands outweighs the convenience of an RTR model. It’s a project that hones problem-solving skills and patience, delivering a unique sense of accomplishment when your creation roars to life.
Essential Components You’ll Need

Successfully building a gas powered RC car requires meticulous planning and sourcing the right parts. Quality components ensure reliability, performance, and a smoother building experience. Here’s a breakdown of the key elements you’ll need:
The Heart: Engine and Fuel System
- Engine: Choose between a nitro engine (requires special nitro fuel) or a petrol engine (runs on gasoline/oil mix). Consider the displacement (e.g., .21, .28 for nitro; 23cc, 26cc for petrol), as this dictates power output.
- Exhaust System: A tuned pipe or muffler is essential for engine performance and noise reduction.
- Air Filter: Protects the engine from dust and debris.
- Fuel Tank: Holds the fuel. Ensure it’s correctly sized for your chassis.
- Fuel Lines: Connect the tank to the carburetor and exhaust (for pressure).
- Clutch Assembly: Engages the engine with the drivetrain. This typically includes a flywheel, clutch shoes, and a clutch bell.
The Brain: Radio System and Servos
- Transmitter (Controller): A 2-channel, 2.4 GHz radio system is standard, providing reliable control over steering and throttle/brake. Some advanced systems offer more channels for additional functions.
- Receiver: Mounted in the car, it receives signals from the transmitter.
- Servos:
- Steering Servo: A high-torque servo is crucial for precise and responsive steering, especially for larger RC cars.
- Throttle/Brake Servo: Controls the carburetor (throttle) and braking mechanism. Speed and torque are important here too.
- Receiver Battery Pack: Powers the receiver and servos. Often a NiMH or LiPo pack.
The Skeleton: Chassis, Suspension, and Drivetrain
- Chassis Plate: The foundation of your RC car. Choose one suitable for gas engines and your desired scale (e.g., 1/8, 1/5).
- Suspension Components:
- Shock Towers: Mount points for the shocks.
- Shock Absorbers (Dampers): Oil-filled shocks are standard, offering adjustable damping.
- Wishbones/Control Arms: Connect the wheels to the chassis.
- Hub Carriers/C-Hubs: Hold the wheel axles.
- Drivetrain Components:
- Gearbox: Contains gears to transmit power.
- Differentials: Front, center (optional), and rear differentials allow wheels to spin at different speeds.
- Driveshafts/Dogbones: Connect differentials to wheel axles.
- Spur Gear & Pinion Gear: The primary gears connecting the clutch bell to the gearbox.
The Skin: Body and Wheels
- RC Body: A lexan or polycarbonate body shell, chosen for aesthetics and aerodynamics. It will need painting and trimming.
- Wheels and Tires: Select based on the terrain you plan to run on (e.g., street tires, off-road knobbies). Ensure they fit your hub carriers.
Tools and Safety Gear
- Hex Wrenches/Nut Drivers: Essential for assembly.
- Screwdrivers: Various sizes.
- Pliers (Needle-nose, Diagonal cutters): For small parts and cutting ties.
- Hobby Knife/Lexan Scissors: For trimming the body.
- Drill/Reamer: For mounting holes and body post holes.
- Threadlock: Medium strength, for screws that should not loosen from vibration.
- Grease/Lubricants: For moving parts and differentials.
- Fuel Bottle/Pump: For nitro fuel.
- Glo-Plug Igniter (for nitro engines): To start the engine.
- Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes during assembly and operation.
- Gloves: For handling fuel and chemicals.
Sourcing these components from reputable RC hobby shops or online retailers will ensure you have high-quality parts ready for your build. You can also explore options at maxmotorsmissouri.com for automotive-related tools and general mechanical parts that might cross over into larger scale RC builds.
Step-by-Step Construction Guide
This section outlines the methodical approach to how to build a gas powered RC car from scratch. Patience and attention to detail are key throughout this process.
Phase 1: Chassis Assembly and Suspension
Begin by laying out your chassis plate. This is the foundation where everything else will attach.
- Mount Bulkheads: Attach the front and rear bulkheads to the chassis. These house the differentials and provide mounting points for suspension components.
- Assemble Differentials: Build your front and rear differentials. This usually involves filling them with silicone differential fluid (of specific weights depending on desired handling) and sealing them. Install them into the bulkheads.
- Attach Suspension Arms (Wishbones): Secure the front and rear upper and lower wishbones to the bulkheads or chassis. Ensure they can move freely without excessive slop.
- Install Shock Towers: Mount the front and rear shock towers to their respective bulkheads.
- Build and Mount Shocks: Assemble your oil-filled shock absorbers. Fill them with shock oil (again, different weights for different handling characteristics) and bleed any air bubbles. Attach them to the shock towers and suspension arms.
- Install Hub Carriers and Steering Blocks: Mount the hub carriers/C-hubs to the outer ends of the wishbones. Then, attach the steering blocks (for the front) and rear hub carriers (for the rear) to these.
Phase 2: Drivetrain Installation
The drivetrain is responsible for transferring power to the wheels.
- Install Center Drivetrain (if applicable): If your car has a center differential or a two-speed transmission, assemble and mount it to the chassis.
- Attach Drivetrain Components: Install the driveshafts (dogbones or CVDs) that connect the differentials to the wheels, and those that connect the engine/center differential to the front and rear differentials.
- Install Clutch Bell and Spur Gear: Mount the spur gear to the center differential or transmission input. Ensure proper gear mesh with the clutch bell, which will be mounted with the engine.
Phase 3: Engine and Fuel System Setup
This is where your RC car truly gets its power source.
- Mount the Engine: Secure the engine to the engine mounts on the chassis. Align the engine so the pinion gear on the clutch bell meshes perfectly with the spur gear. This gear mesh is critical; too tight causes drag, too loose causes stripped gears.
- Install Clutch Assembly: Mount the flywheel, clutch shoes, and clutch bell to the engine’s crankshaft.
- Install Fuel Tank: Secure the fuel tank to the chassis.
- Connect Fuel Lines: Attach the fuel lines from the tank to the carburetor and from the tank to the exhaust pressure nipple (for consistent fuel flow).
- Mount Exhaust System: Install the header pipe and tuned pipe/muffler to the engine.
- Attach Air Filter: Secure the air filter to the carburetor. Ensure it’s clean and properly oiled for optimal filtration.
Phase 4: Electronics Integration
Bringing your RC car to life through remote control.
- Mount Receiver: Place the receiver in its designated box or location on the chassis, protecting it from dirt and moisture.
- Install Servos: Mount the steering servo and the throttle/brake servo onto their respective mounts.
- Connect Servo Linkages: Attach the steering servo horn to the steering linkage, which then connects to the steering blocks. Connect the throttle/brake servo horn to the linkages that operate the carburetor and the brake mechanism. Adjust these linkages to achieve neutral positions.
- Route Antenna: Guide the receiver antenna wire through an antenna tube, ensuring it stands upright for optimal signal reception.
- Install Receiver Battery: Secure the receiver battery pack to the chassis. Connect it to the receiver.
Phase 5: Steering and Braking Linkages
Fine-tuning the control inputs.
- Adjust Steering Linkages: With your radio system powered on and trimmed to neutral, adjust the length of the steering linkages so that the front wheels are perfectly straight (toe-in/toe-out can be adjusted later).
- Adjust Throttle/Brake Linkages: Ensure the throttle linkage allows the carburetor to open fully at full throttle and close completely at neutral. The brake linkage should apply sufficient braking pressure at full brake input without dragging when at neutral. This typically involves setting end points on your transmitter.
Phase 6: Body Mounting and Final Touches
The aesthetic and protective layer of your RC car.
- Prepare Body: Trim the lexan body shell according to the cut lines. Wash it thoroughly to remove mold release agents.
- Paint Body: Apply multiple thin coats of lexan-specific paint from the inside of the body. Once dry, remove the protective film from the outside.
- Mount Body: Place the body on the chassis. Mark and drill holes for the body posts. Install the body clips to secure the body.
- Mount Wheels and Tires: Attach the pre-mounted wheels and tires to the wheel axles using wheel nuts.
- Final Inspection: Double-check all screws, linkages, and connections. Ensure nothing is binding and all parts move freely.
Initial Setup and First Start-Up
After completing the physical build, the first start-up is a critical moment. This stage focuses on bringing the engine to life and calibrating your control system.
Engine Break-In Procedure
For nitro engines especially, a proper break-in procedure is vital for longevity and performance. This typically involves running the engine at rich (fuel-heavy) settings for several tanks of fuel, allowing the internal components to seat properly. Consult your engine’s manual for the specific procedure, but generally:
- Prime the Engine: Push fuel from the tank to the carburetor using a primer bulb or by blocking the exhaust.
- Insert Glo-Plug Igniter (Nitro): For nitro engines, heat the glo-plug with an igniter.
- Start the Engine: Use a pull-starter, rotostart, or starter box to crank the engine. It may take several tries.
- Run Rich: Keep the engine running at a moderately low, consistent RPM. Avoid full throttle.
- Monitor Temperature: Ensure the engine doesn’t overheat.
- Repeat: Run several tanks through, letting the engine cool between runs. Gradually lean out the fuel mixture according to the manual after the initial break-in.
Radio Calibration and Trim Adjustments
Once the engine is running and broken in, fine-tune your radio system.
- Set End Points (EPA/ATV): Adjust the maximum travel for your steering, throttle, and brake servos on your transmitter. This prevents servos from straining or over-rotating.
- Adjust Sub-Trim: Fine-tune the neutral position of your servos so that the wheels are straight and the throttle is completely closed when the transmitter triggers are at neutral.
- Adjust Steering Trim: Make minor adjustments to ensure the car tracks straight when no steering input is given.
- Reverse Servo Direction (if needed): If a servo is moving in the wrong direction (e.g., left steering input turns wheels right), reverse its channel on the transmitter.
Safety Checks Before Running
Safety is paramount, especially with gas-powered vehicles.
- Check Fuel Lines: Ensure all fuel lines are securely connected and free of leaks.
- Verify Linkages: Confirm all steering, throttle, and brake linkages are securely attached and move freely.
- Inspect Wheel Nuts: Make sure all wheel nuts are tightened.
- Check Battery Levels: Ensure your receiver battery and transmitter battery are fully charged.
- Run in Open Area: Always operate gas powered RC cars in open, well-ventilated areas, away from people, pets, and flammable materials.
- Know the Kill Switch: Familiarize yourself with how to safely shut down the engine in an emergency (e.g., pinching the fuel line, if no remote kill switch is present).
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with the most careful build, you may encounter issues. Knowing how to diagnose and resolve them is part of mastering how to build a gas powered RC car from scratch.
Engine Won’t Start
- No Fuel: Check if the tank has fuel and if the fuel lines are properly connected and not clogged.
- Glo-Plug (Nitro): Ensure the glo-plug is hot and functioning. Replace if faulty.
- Flooded Engine: If there’s too much fuel in the combustion chamber, remove the glo-plug and crank the engine a few times to clear it.
- Air Leak: Check for air leaks around the carburetor or engine seals.
- Compression: Ensure the engine has good compression. If not, it might indicate wear.
- Low Receiver Battery: A weak receiver battery can affect the glo-plug igniter (if integrated) or the fuel pump.
Steering or Throttle Problems
- Weak Servos: Servos that are too weak for the task can lead to unresponsive controls.
- Binding Linkages: Check if any linkages are rubbing against other components or are bent.
- Radio Interference: Environmental factors or a faulty radio system can cause erratic behavior. Ensure antenna is fully extended.
- Loose Connections: Verify all servo wires are securely plugged into the receiver.
- Incorrect EPA/Sub-Trim: Readjust end points and sub-trims on your transmitter.
Overheating
- Lean Fuel Mixture: Running the engine too lean (not enough fuel) can cause it to run hot. Enrich the mixture slightly.
- Restricted Airflow: Ensure the engine’s cooling fins are clear of debris and the body shell allows for adequate airflow.
- Incorrect Gearing: Gearing that is too high (large pinion, small spur) can overwork the engine.
- Engine Wear: An old or worn engine may run hotter due to increased friction.
Maintenance Tips for Longevity
Regular maintenance is key to preserving your gas powered RC car’s performance and lifespan.
Post-Run Cleaning
- Remove Dirt and Debris: After each run, especially off-road, use compressed air and brushes to clean dirt from the chassis, engine, and suspension components.
- Inspect for Damage: Look for bent parts, loose screws, or worn tires.
- Clean Air Filter: Clean and re-oil the air filter regularly to protect the engine.
- Check Fuel System: Empty the fuel tank if storing for extended periods, and inspect fuel lines for cracks or leaks.
Regular Inspections
- Lubrication: Periodically lubricate moving parts like dogbones, bearings, and differential gears.
- Tighten Screws: Vibration can loosen screws. Check and tighten all fasteners, applying threadlock where necessary.
- Check Wear Parts: Inspect tires, clutch shoes, brake pads, and suspension pivot balls for wear and replace as needed.
- Examine Engine: Check the engine for leaks, ensure the head screws are tight, and periodically inspect the piston and sleeve for wear.
Storage
- Clean and Dry: Ensure the RC car is thoroughly clean and dry before storage.
- Remove Batteries: Disconnect or remove all batteries to prevent discharge or damage.
- After-Run Oil (Nitro): For nitro engines, use a few drops of after-run oil in the carburetor and through the glo-plug hole before storage to prevent corrosion.
- Protective Cover: Store your RC car in a protective bag or box to keep it free from dust.
Building a gas powered RC car from scratch is an undertaking that demands dedication but rewards you with a deep understanding of mechanics and a truly personalized machine. This guide has provided comprehensive steps on how to build a gas powered RC car from scratch, covering everything from component selection to initial start-up and ongoing maintenance. For enthusiasts looking to further their automotive knowledge or find high-quality parts, resources like maxmotorsmissouri.com can offer valuable insights and products. The journey from a collection of parts to a roaring, remote-controlled vehicle is an experience that resonates with the spirit of true craftsmanship.
Last Updated on October 10, 2025 by Cristian Steven