Changing engine oil and filter in a car is one of the most fundamental and vital maintenance tasks any car owner can undertake. This routine service is essential for prolonging your vehicle’s engine life, ensuring optimal performance, and maintaining fuel efficiency. While it might seem daunting at first, with the right tools, knowledge, and adherence to safety protocols, it’s a perfectly manageable DIY project for many. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, helping you confidently perform this crucial car care task.
Why Regular Oil Changes Are Crucial for Your Car

Engine oil is the lifeblood of your car’s engine, performing multiple critical functions. It lubricates moving parts, reducing friction and wear; it helps cool the engine by carrying heat away from hot zones; and it cleans by carrying contaminants and sludge to the oil filter. Over time, engine oil degrades, losing its viscosity and ability to lubricate effectively due to exposure to high temperatures and combustion byproducts. The oil filter, in turn, captures these contaminants, but it too becomes saturated and less effective.
Neglecting regular oil and filter changes can lead to serious consequences. Worn-out oil can cause increased friction, leading to premature engine wear, reduced fuel economy, and even catastrophic engine failure. A clogged oil filter will restrict oil flow, potentially starving critical engine components of lubrication. Adhering to your car manufacturer’s recommended service intervals, typically every 3,000 to 10,000 miles or every 6 to 12 months, depending on the oil type and vehicle model, is paramount for the health and longevity of your engine. For reliable insights into various aspects of car maintenance and ownership, maxmotorsmissouri.com offers a wealth of information.
Essential Tools and Supplies for the Job

Before you embark on the process to change engine oil and filter in a car, gather all the necessary tools and supplies. Having everything ready beforehand will make the job smoother and safer.
- New Engine Oil: Refer to your car’s owner’s manual for the correct type (e.g., conventional, synthetic blend, full synthetic) and viscosity (e.g., 5W-30, 0W-20). The manual will also specify the exact quantity needed. Using the wrong oil can damage your engine.
- New Oil Filter: Ensure you purchase the correct filter for your specific make, model, and year. A slightly different filter might not fit or could compromise filtration.
- Oil Filter Wrench: This tool is designed to grip and remove the old oil filter, which can often be very tight. There are various types, including strap wrenches, cap wrenches, and pliers-style wrenches.
- Drain Pan: A container large enough to hold all the old engine oil. Most cars require 4-7 quarts of oil, so a 10-quart pan is usually sufficient.
- Socket Wrench and Sockets: You’ll need a socket that fits your oil drain plug. This is typically a metric size, but consult your manual.
- Car Jack and Jack Stands: Absolutely essential for safely lifting and supporting your car. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Wheel Chocks: To prevent the car from rolling while it’s lifted.
- Funnel: To pour new oil into the engine without spilling.
- Rags or Shop Towels: For cleaning up spills and wiping parts.
- Disposable Gloves: To protect your hands from oil and grime.
- Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from splashes.
- Torque Wrench (Optional but Recommended): For tightening the drain plug and oil filter to manufacturer specifications, preventing over-tightening or under-tightening.
- New Drain Plug Washer/Gasket (Optional but Recommended): Many drain plugs use a crush washer or gasket that should be replaced with each oil change to ensure a leak-free seal.
Safety First: Preparing for the Job

Safety is paramount when working under a vehicle. Improper lifting or support can lead to serious injury or death.
- Park on a Level Surface: Ensure your car is parked on flat, solid ground. This prevents the vehicle from rolling and ensures stability when lifted.
- Engage Parking Brake: Always engage your parking brake firmly.
- Chock the Wheels: Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels if you’re lifting the front of the car, or in front of the front wheels if lifting the rear. This adds an extra layer of security.
- Warm Up the Engine (Briefly): It’s best to change the oil when the engine is warm, but not scorching hot. Warm oil flows more easily, allowing more contaminants to drain. Drive the car for 5-10 minutes, then let it sit for another 10-15 minutes to cool down slightly and allow oil to settle in the pan.
- Lift the Car Safely: Locate the manufacturer-specified jack points on your vehicle’s frame. Use a hydraulic jack to lift the front of the car high enough to comfortably work underneath. Once lifted, immediately place jack stands beneath the car at the designated support points. Slowly lower the car until it rests securely on the jack stands. Give the car a gentle shake to confirm stability. Never rely solely on the jack.
- Wear Protective Gear: Put on your safety glasses and disposable gloves.
Step-by-Step Guide: Draining the Old Oil
This is the messy part, but essential for a thorough engine oil and filter change.
- Locate the Oil Drain Plug: Get under the car (safely!) and locate the oil pan. The oil pan is typically a large metal reservoir at the bottom of the engine, and the drain plug is a bolt usually found on the lowest point of the pan.
- Position the Drain Pan: Place your drain pan directly underneath the drain plug. Ensure it’s centered and wide enough to catch all the oil, as the oil will initially gush out and then thin to a stream.
- Remove the Drain Plug: Using the correct socket wrench, loosen the drain plug. You might need to apply a bit of force initially. Once it’s loose, unscrew it by hand. Be prepared for the oil to start flowing immediately. Keep the drain plug handy, as you’ll need it later. Let the oil drain completely. This can take 10-15 minutes.
- Inspect the Drain Plug and Washer: While the oil drains, inspect the drain plug for any damage to the threads. If your car uses a crush washer or gasket, remove the old one and prepare the new one. This tiny component is crucial for preventing leaks.
- Reinstall the Drain Plug: Once the oil has completely drained to a slow drip, clean the area around the drain plug opening. Reinstall the drain plug, ideally with a new crush washer or gasket. Hand-tighten it first, then use your socket wrench. If you have a torque wrench, tighten it to the manufacturer’s specified torque setting (found in your owner’s manual). Do not overtighten, as this can strip the oil pan threads, leading to a much more expensive repair.
Replacing the Oil Filter
The oil filter works hand-in-hand with the engine oil, and replacing it simultaneously ensures optimal filtration.
- Locate the Oil Filter: The oil filter is usually a cylindrical canister attached to the side or bottom of the engine block. Its location varies significantly by car model. Sometimes it’s easily accessible; other times, it might be tucked away behind other components.
- Position the Drain Pan (Again): Even after draining the oil, there will be some residual oil in the filter and its housing. Place your drain pan underneath the oil filter to catch any drips.
- Remove the Old Oil Filter: Use your oil filter wrench to loosen the filter. Once it’s loose, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Be careful as it comes off, as hot oil will inevitably spill out.
- Clean the Mounting Surface: Once the old filter is off, use a clean rag to wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine block. Ensure there’s no old gasket material left behind.
- Prepare the New Filter: Take your new oil filter. Dip your finger in some new engine oil and apply a thin film of oil around the rubber gasket of the new filter. This helps create a good seal and makes the filter easier to remove next time.
- Install the New Filter: Screw the new filter onto the engine by hand. Once the gasket makes contact with the engine block, tighten it another ¾ to full turn (or follow the specific instructions on the filter packaging or in your owner’s manual). Do not overtighten with a wrench, as this can damage the filter or its seal, making it incredibly difficult to remove next time and potentially causing leaks. Hand-tightening is usually sufficient, perhaps with a slight nudge from the wrench for security.
Adding New Engine Oil
With the old oil drained and a new filter installed, it’s time to replenish your engine with fresh, clean oil.
- Identify the Correct Oil Type and Quantity: Double-check your owner’s manual for the exact type (e.g., 5W-30 synthetic) and quantity of oil your engine requires. It’s crucial to use the recommended specifications.
- Lower the Car (Carefully): Before adding oil, carefully lift the car off the jack stands with your jack, then remove the stands. Slowly lower the car back to the ground. The car must be level to get an accurate oil level reading.
- Locate the Oil Filler Cap: Open your car’s hood and locate the oil filler cap on the engine. It’s usually clearly marked with an oil can symbol.
- Pour in the New Oil: Place a funnel into the oil filler opening. Slowly pour in the new engine oil, starting with slightly less than the recommended amount (e.g., if it takes 5 quarts, pour in 4.5 quarts).
- Check the Dipstick: After pouring in most of the oil, wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the pan. Pull out the engine’s dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it fully, and then pull it out again. Check the oil level. It should be between the “Add” and “Full” marks.
- Add More Oil as Needed: If the level is below “Full,” add a small amount of oil at a time (e.g., a quarter of a quart), wait a few minutes, and recheck the dipstick until the oil level is within the safe operating range. Be careful not to overfill, as too much oil can be as detrimental as too little.
Final Checks and Post-Procedure Tips
You’re almost done! A few final steps ensure everything is in order and prepare for future maintenance.
- Start the Engine and Check for Leaks: Close the oil filler cap securely. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. While it’s running, quickly check underneath the car for any signs of leaks around the drain plug or the new oil filter. A few drops are normal, but a steady stream indicates an issue (likely an improperly tightened plug or filter).
- Recheck Oil Level: Turn off the engine and wait about 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle. Recheck the oil level with the dipstick to ensure it’s still within the proper range. The oil filter will have absorbed some oil, so the level might have dropped slightly. Top off if necessary.
- Reset the Oil Life Monitor (If Applicable): Many modern cars have an oil life monitoring system that needs to be reset after an oil change. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on how to do this for your specific vehicle.
- Proper Disposal of Old Oil and Filter: This is crucial for environmental protection. Never pour used oil down the drain or into the ground. Most auto parts stores and service stations accept used engine oil for recycling. Place the old oil filter in a sealed plastic bag and dispose of it responsibly at a local recycling center if available.
- Record Maintenance: Note down the date and mileage of your oil change. This helps you keep track of your maintenance schedule and ensures you change your engine oil and filter in a car at the appropriate intervals.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced DIYers can make mistakes. Being aware of common pitfalls can save you trouble.
- Overtightening: Both the drain plug and the oil filter can be easily overtightened, leading to stripped threads, damaged gaskets, or making future removal extremely difficult. Always use a torque wrench if possible, or follow specific hand-tightening guidelines.
- Using the Wrong Oil: Different engines require different types and viscosities of oil. Using the wrong oil can impact lubrication, fuel economy, and engine longevity. Always consult your owner’s manual.
- Not Using Jack Stands: Never, ever work under a car that is only supported by a jack. Jacks can fail, leading to catastrophic injury or death. Always use sturdy jack stands.
- Forgetting to Replace the Drain Plug or Filter Gasket: Reusing an old crush washer or gasket for the drain plug, or failing to properly seat the new oil filter gasket, can lead to leaks.
- Overfilling or Underfilling Oil: Both scenarios are bad for your engine. Too little oil means insufficient lubrication; too much can lead to aeration, increased pressure, and seal damage. Always check the dipstick accurately.
When to Seek Professional Help
While changing your engine oil and filter in a car is a rewarding DIY task, there are times when it’s best to call in the professionals.
- Inaccessible Components: Some vehicles have drain plugs or oil filters that are incredibly difficult to reach without specialized lifts or tools.
- Unusual Symptoms: If you notice strange noises, persistent leaks, or other engine problems during the process, a mechanic can diagnose the underlying issue.
- Lack of Tools or Time: If you don’t have the proper equipment or simply don’t have the time, a professional service is always a reliable option.
- Warranty Concerns: For newer vehicles, some manufacturers may require maintenance to be performed by certified technicians to uphold the warranty. Always check your warranty terms.
Changing your engine oil and filter in a car is a fundamental maintenance task that significantly impacts your vehicle’s performance and lifespan. By following these steps carefully, prioritizing safety, and using the correct tools and supplies, you can confidently perform this service yourself. Regular oil changes are a small investment of time and money that yield massive returns in terms of engine health and reliability.
Last Updated on October 10, 2025 by Cristian Steven