How to Get a Non Running Car on a Trailer

Moving a non-running car can seem like a daunting task, whether it’s due to an engine malfunction, a dead battery, or an accident. Successfully getting a non running car on a trailer requires careful planning, the right equipment, and a strict adherence to safety protocols. This guide will walk you through the essential steps, ensuring you can transport your disabled vehicle securely and without incident. With patience and proper technique, you can overcome this challenge and safely prepare your vehicle for its next destination.

Understanding the Challenge: Why is Your Car Non-Running?

how to get a non running car on a trailer — How to Get a Non Running Car on a Trailer

Before you begin the process of loading, it’s helpful to understand why your car isn’t running. This knowledge can influence your approach and the specific tools you might need. Common reasons for a non-running vehicle include a dead battery, engine failure, transmission issues, severe mechanical damage, or even just flat tires. Each scenario might present unique challenges, such as locked wheels, an unresponsive transmission, or difficulty steering. Always prioritize safety and assess the vehicle’s condition to anticipate potential hazards.

Ensuring a clear understanding of the situation is paramount. If the car has been involved in an accident, there might be structural damage that complicates towing or loading. If the brakes are seized or the transmission is stuck in gear, you’ll need specialized equipment like wheel dollies or a way to manually disengage the parking brake. Taking a few moments to evaluate the car’s state can save considerable time and prevent complications during the loading process.

Essential Tools and Equipment for Loading a Disabled Vehicle

Having the right tools is half the battle when you need to get a non running car on a trailer. Gathering these items beforehand will streamline the process and enhance safety.

Winch: The Most Common Method

A winch is arguably the most critical piece of equipment for loading a non-running vehicle onto a trailer. It provides the mechanical advantage needed to pull a heavy, immobile car.

Types of Winches:
- Electric Winches: These are powered by the towing vehicle’s electrical system (or an independent battery) and are common for their ease of use and consistent pulling power. They often come with remote controls, allowing for safe operation from a distance.
- Hydraulic Winches: Typically more powerful and faster, hydraulic winches are driven by the towing vehicle’s power steering pump. They are usually found on heavy-duty recovery vehicles.
- Manual Hand Winches: Suitable for lighter vehicles or if no power source is available, these require manual cranking and are generally slower but reliable.
Winch Line, Hooks, and Snatch Block: Ensure your winch line (cable or synthetic rope) is in good condition and rated for the weight of your vehicle. A strong, secure hook is essential for attaching to the car’s frame. A snatch block can double the pulling power of your winch and change the direction of pull, which is incredibly useful in tight spaces or for awkward angles.

Ramps: Safety and Selection

Ramps provide the incline necessary to transition the car from ground level to the trailer deck.

Loading Ramps: These are specifically designed for vehicle loading. They should be heavy-duty, rated for the combined weight of your vehicle and the trailer’s capacity, and offer sufficient traction.
Angle and Length: The angle of the ramps is crucial. Too steep, and the car might bottom out or be impossible to push/winch. Longer ramps provide a shallower, safer angle. Consider the ground clearance of both the non-running car and the trailer.

Straps, Chains, and Chocks

Securing the car once it’s on the trailer is paramount to prevent movement during transport.

Wheel Straps/Tie-Downs: These are designed to go over or around the tires and secure the vehicle directly to the trailer’s anchor points. They distribute pressure evenly and minimize strain on the vehicle’s suspension.
Tie-Down Chains and Binders: For heavier vehicles or added security, chains can be used with load binders. Ensure the chains are rated for towing and are attached to strong points on the vehicle’s frame.
Wheel Chocks/Blocks: Place these behind the wheels once the car is on the trailer to prevent any rolling, especially if the parking brake is inoperable. Wooden blocks or specialized rubber chocks work well.

Safety Gear

Personal safety should never be overlooked.

Gloves and Safety Glasses: Protect your hands from scrapes and your eyes from debris or snapping cables.
High-Visibility Vest: Essential when working near traffic or in low-light conditions.
Work Lights/Reflective Triangles: Improve visibility, especially if you’re working at night or on the roadside.

Other Useful Items

Jacks and Dollies: If a wheel is missing, seized, or severely damaged, car dollies can be indispensable. They allow the car to be rolled even without functional wheels. A jack will be needed to lift the car to position the dollies.
Brake Release Tools/Lubricant: Sometimes, a parking brake can be manually released, or a bit of penetrating oil can free up sticky components.
Portable Air Compressor: Useful for inflating trailer tires or even the non-running car’s tires if they’re low, which can aid in rolling.

Pre-Loading Safety Checks and Preparations

Before you attempt to get a non running car on a trailer, thorough preparation is essential. This stage sets the foundation for a safe and successful loading process.

Trailer Preparation

The trailer itself must be ready and secure before any loading begins.

Securely Hitch the Trailer: Ensure the trailer is correctly and securely hitched to the tow vehicle. Double-check the hitch pin, safety chains, and breakaway cable. A loose hitch can lead to catastrophic accidents.
Check Trailer Components: Inspect the trailer’s tires for proper inflation and tread depth. Verify that all trailer lights (tail lights, brake lights, turn signals) are working correctly and synchronized with the tow vehicle. Test the trailer brakes, if equipped.
Level and Stable Ground: Position the trailer on a flat, firm, and level surface. Uneven ground can cause the trailer to shift unexpectedly during loading, creating a hazardous situation. Engage the tow vehicle’s parking brake and, if available, use chocks under the trailer wheels for added stability. Many car trailers have stabilizer jacks – deploy these if you have them.

Vehicle Preparation

The non-running car also needs to be prepared for loading.

Clear Path: Ensure there’s a clear, unobstructed path for the car to move onto the trailer. Remove any debris, tools, or obstacles.
Release Parking Brake: If possible, release the parking brake. If it’s stuck or inoperable, you might need to consult the car’s manual for a manual release procedure or use dollies.
Transmission in Neutral: If the transmission is functional, put it in neutral (N). If it’s an automatic and the battery is dead, you might need to override the shift lock (often a small button or slot near the shifter that can be pressed with a key).
Clear Interior and Exterior: Remove any loose items from the car’s interior that could shift or become damaged. Secure any loose body panels or parts on the exterior.
Assess Damage: Take a final look at the car for any critical damage that could impede loading, such as severely bent wheels, broken suspension components, or sharp edges that could snag ropes or straps.

Site Assessment

The environment where you’re working plays a critical role in safety.

Flat, Stable Ground: Reiterate the importance of a level, stable surface. Avoid slopes, soft ground, or areas with poor traction.
Adequate Lighting: If working at dawn, dusk, or night, ensure you have sufficient lighting. Headlamps, work lights, or even the tow vehicle’s headlights can be helpful.
Clear Area: Ensure there’s enough space around the car and trailer for you to work safely without being constrained. Keep bystanders at a safe distance.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Get a Non Running Car on a Trailer

With preparations complete, you’re ready to tackle the actual loading process. Here are the primary methods:

Method 1: Using a Winch (Most Common and Safest)

This is the recommended method for loading a non-running car, offering controlled power and safety.

Position the Car and Trailer: Carefully align the non-running car with the center of the trailer ramps. The car should be as straight as possible relative to the ramps to avoid skewing.
Secure the Trailer and Vehicle: Ensure the tow vehicle’s parking brake is engaged and the trailer is chocked if not already done. Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires of the non-running car to prevent it from rolling backward accidentally.
Attach the Winch Cable: Extend the winch cable and securely attach its hook to a sturdy, structural point on the non-running car’s frame. Avoid attaching to suspension components, axles, or anything that could bend or break under tension. Often, there are designated towing points. If not, use a bridle or tow strap around a strong frame component to distribute the load.
Winch the Car Slowly and Steadily: Begin winching the car onto the trailer. Do this slowly and in a controlled manner. Watch the car carefully as it moves up the ramps. Ensure it stays centered. If the car starts to shift or bind, stop immediately, reassess, and make adjustments.
Monitor and Adjust: As the car approaches the trailer deck, ensure there’s no interference with the ramps or trailer components. Once the car is fully on the trailer, continue winching until it’s positioned correctly for weight distribution. The front of the car should generally be slightly forward of the trailer’s axles, allowing for appropriate tongue weight on the tow vehicle (typically 10-15% of the total trailer weight).

Method 2: Manual Pushing with Ramps (If Winch is Unavailable and Safe)

This method requires significant physical effort and multiple people, and should only be attempted with lighter vehicles on very shallow ramps, on perfectly flat ground, and with extreme caution.

Positioning for Ramps: Place the ramps securely on the trailer and the ground. Ensure they won’t slip.
Getting Sufficient Manpower: Recruit at least three to four strong individuals. One person should be in the driver’s seat to steer and, if possible, control any remaining brake function. The others will push.
Controlled Pushing onto Ramps: With clear communication, slowly push the car onto the ramps. The person in the driver’s seat guides the steering and calls out any issues.
Extreme Caution: This method is inherently riskier due to the potential for the car to roll unexpectedly. Always have wheel chocks ready to be quickly placed behind the wheels if the car starts to roll backward. Avoid pushing from points that could cause injury if the car moves suddenly.

Method 3: Using Car Dollies (For Seized Wheels or Difficult Situations)

If wheels are seized, missing, or the car has significant damage preventing normal rolling, dollies are your best friend.

Lifting the Non-Running Car: Use a sturdy jack to lift each wheel of the non-running car individually, or lift the entire axle.
Placing Dollies Under Wheels: Once a wheel is lifted, slide a car dolly underneath it. Repeat for all wheels that need assistance. Ensure the dollies are locked or chocked to prevent unintended movement while working.
Maneuvering with Dollies: With the car on dollies, it can now be moved more easily. You can push it manually or use a winch (attaching the winch cable to the car’s frame as usual) to pull it onto the trailer.
Rolling onto the Trailer: Guide the car, now on dollies, onto the trailer ramps and then onto the trailer deck. The dollies will simplify the process, allowing for smoother movement.

Securing the Car on the Trailer for Transport

Once the car is on the trailer, the next critical step is to secure it properly for safe transport. This is not a step to rush or overlook, as an improperly secured vehicle is a severe hazard on the road.

Proper Placement for Weight Distribution

Center of Gravity: The goal is to position the car so its center of gravity is slightly forward of the trailer’s axles. This creates the optimal tongue weight (the downward force exerted by the trailer tongue on the hitch ball of the tow vehicle).
Tongue Weight Considerations: Too little tongue weight (car too far back) can cause the trailer to sway violently, leading to loss of control. Too much tongue weight (car too far forward) can overload the tow vehicle’s rear axle, affecting steering and braking. A good rule of thumb is 10-15% of the total loaded trailer weight for tongue weight. Adjust the car’s position slightly forward or backward on the trailer until this balance is achieved.

Using Tie-Down Straps and Chains

Secure the car at a minimum of four points, preferably at each corner.

Over-the-Tire Straps: These are highly recommended as they secure the vehicle by its tires, allowing the vehicle’s suspension to absorb road bumps independently. This reduces stress on the vehicle’s frame and prevents damage from overtightening. Ensure the straps are properly threaded through the ratchets and tightened until snug.
Frame Chains/Straps: Alternatively, or in addition, use heavy-duty chains or traditional polyester tie-down straps attached to strong points on the vehicle’s frame (never to suspension or steering components). Use appropriate binders or ratchets to apply tension.
Criss-Cross Method: When possible, use a criss-cross pattern for your tie-downs. For example, attach a strap from the front left of the car to the front right anchor point on the trailer, and from the front right of the car to the front left anchor point. This adds lateral stability.
Regular Tension Checks: After securing, give each strap or chain a firm tug to confirm it’s tight. It’s also wise to stop a few miles into your journey to re-check the tension, as straps can loosen slightly with initial movement and bumps.

Engaging Trailer Brakes and Locks

Engage Parking Brake (if possible): If the non-running car’s parking brake is functional, engage it. This adds an extra layer of security.
Use Wheel Chocks: Even with straps, place wheel chocks firmly against the front and rear of at least two wheels (preferably all four) to prevent any minor rolling or shifting.

Final Checks Before Driving

Before you hit the road, a final comprehensive check is critical. Taking a moment for these last verifications can prevent costly and dangerous mishaps.

Double-Check All Straps and Connections: Walk around the entire setup. Verify that all tie-down straps or chains are tight, properly routed, and securely connected to both the car and the trailer. Ensure the winch cable is retracted and secured, and the winch hook is put away safely. Confirm the trailer hitch is still secure and the safety chains are crossed and attached.
Verify Lights and Turn Signals: Test all trailer lights, including tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals. Have someone watch as you activate them. This is crucial for road safety and legality.
Check Mirrors for Visibility: Adjust your tow vehicle’s mirrors to ensure you have a clear view of the trailer and the loaded car. If the load obstructs your view, consider using extended towing mirrors.
Perform a Slow Test Drive: Before heading onto the main roads, drive a short distance at low speed in a safe area (e.g., a quiet parking lot). Listen for any unusual noises, feel for any swaying or instability, and observe how the tow vehicle handles. If anything feels off, pull over immediately and re-inspect your setup.
Plan Your Route: Consider your route, especially if the loaded trailer is larger or heavier than you typically tow. Avoid extremely steep hills, tight turns, or rough roads if possible. Be mindful of bridge heights and underpasses. For comprehensive vehicle care and towing advice, visit maxmotorsmissouri.com.
Roadside Emergency Kit: Always have a roadside emergency kit that includes items like flares, reflective triangles, a first-aid kit, and basic tools.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Loading a Non-Running Car

Preventing mistakes is just as important as following the correct steps. Being aware of these common pitfalls will enhance safety and efficiency.

Improper Trailer Hitching: A poorly hitched trailer can detach, leading to severe accidents. Always ensure the hitch ball is the correct size, the coupler is fully engaged and locked, and safety chains are properly crossed and attached.
Overloading the Trailer: Every trailer has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). Exceeding these limits can cause tire blowouts, brake failure, and structural damage to the trailer or tow vehicle. Know the weight of your non-running car and the capacity of your trailer.
Insufficient Tie-Downs: Using too few straps, or attaching them to weak points, can result in the car shifting or even coming loose during transport. Always use at least four tie-down points, and ensure they are to the vehicle’s frame and the trailer’s structural anchor points.
Ignoring Safety Gear: Skipping gloves, safety glasses, or high-visibility vests increases your risk of injury, especially when dealing with heavy machinery and potentially sharp edges.
Rushing the Process: Haste leads to errors. Take your time with each step, double-checking connections and ensuring stability.
Not Checking for Fluid Leaks: A non-running car might have fluid leaks (oil, coolant, transmission fluid). Address these before loading, or at least place absorbent mats under the car on the trailer to prevent environmental contamination and slippery surfaces.
Failing to Distribute Weight Correctly: As discussed, incorrect weight distribution (too much or too little tongue weight) leads to trailer sway or excessive strain on the tow vehicle. Always aim for that 10-15% tongue weight.

Successfully getting a non running car on a trailer is a manageable task when approached with diligence and a focus on safety. By understanding the tools, preparing thoroughly, and following a methodical process, you can ensure your disabled vehicle is transported securely and without incident. Always prioritize safety, take your time, and double-check every connection to guarantee a smooth journey for your immobile vehicle.

Last Updated on October 10, 2025 by Cristian Steven

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